Cat-007 [Big Boss Cuts] Take-5 <☆>

Cat-007 [Big Boss Cuts] Take-5 <☆>

Comments on Black and White Printing/ Developing …
You take a studied negative exposed and viewed by transmitted light that will always reveal more detail than a print viewed by reflected light and you are looking for creative expression low densities midtones and finally highlights of the image…

۞Making an enlargement… Determine exposure: Decide on the size of the print you want to make and raise the enlarger to the necessary height and place the negative in the negative carrier after dusting the negative and the lens making sure it is clean. Papers come in a variety of colours from a pale cream to cold tones. Place your paper in this case, fibre based paper or any fine grade printing paper shiny side up in the easel to focus on, ensuring that the plane of focus is exactly where you are going to print. Using a grain magnifier to critically focus on the grain negative and make test strips to determine the optimum expose time eg 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, seconds etc. Place the paper in the easel under safe light conditions and switch the enlarger light exposing and transfer through the negative to the paper using the determined optimum expose time...

۞Developing the print… Place the paper in the Developer solution, soak and agitate the Chemical. Generally it needs 1 to 2 minutes depending on your creativity and once the time is over, use the bamboo tongs to lift the paper out and drop into the Stop Bath, do not let the tongs touch the stop chemicals or it will contaminate the developer when you put it back there. Let the print sit in the Stop Bath for about 15 to 30 seconds depending on the paper, fibre based papers need longer and then transfer with a separate pair of tongs to the Fixer. Time depends in the Fixer, about 5 minutes. Once the print is fixed, it needs to be Washed in cold running water. Print washing of fibre based paper can take a long time 15 to 30 minutes as can a washing aids…

۞Rendering the process… The Printing proceeds in exactly the same fashion as film, except that since paper is orthochromatic you can work under the dark room safe lights and watch the image come up in the developing solution and this part is truly mythical and your never lose the fascination for watching the chemicals render and reveal the picture processing right before your eyes…Hang-out to dry …

Cat-007 [Big Boss Cuts] Take-5 <☆>

Cat-007 [Big Boss Cuts] Take-5 <☆>

Comments made On Photography...

Camera Hand Held Metering ...
There are two types of hand held meter to consider the reflected light and the incident light type. Sometimes they are dedicated types but usually the two functions are combined. Better meters will also have a flash meter function. The incident type measures the light falling on the subject, the reading only varying with the brightness of the light. The reflected type measures the light reflected off the subject so effectively reads the brightness of the light and takes into account the subject’s reflectivity. The flash meter will measure the flash test burst and give a reading of the aperture to use...

When cameras started to get electronic the meter was built into the body peering through its own hole in compact cameras and inside the body effectively peering through the lens for Single Lens Reflex (SLR) cameras. So the first meters in SLR's are incident light meters with the same basic problem, that is, they sum up the whole scene and make an exposure based on the assumption the whole scene is an average 18% grey...

Camera Exposure modes …

Modern cameras often have a number of “manual and automatic exposure modes” intended to help the photographer get the best pictures without worrying too much about some of the technicalities and effects of shutter speeds and aperture values.Your other creative camera control is the aperture (opening) on your lens. We measure the size of the opening using f-stops. Each f-stop is twice as large or half as small as the one next to it. f/1.4, f/2.8, f/3.5, f/4.0, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22, f/32...

Why bother with all this? As you go higher in f-stop numbers, you increase the front-to-back distance (depth of field) in your photograph. Thus, if you take a picture at f/22 (a very small opening), you’ll have most of your picture in focus. A way to remember this is as you go higher in f-numbers; more of the picture is in focus...

Going back to our faucet analogy, the challenge with increased f-number (smaller aperture) is that less light comes in through the lens. So you must compensate with a slower shutter speed. Most of the time you will be safe in using mid-range camera settings. In sunny mid-day conditions, you can use an f-stop of f/8 and 1/250 of a second and do just fine with ISO 100 film. Automatic and inexpensive box cameras and many digital cameras are preset to such aperture/shutter speed combinations...

Camera ISO Speeds …
Many newer cameras allow you to set them to either shutter-priority or aperture-priority modes. Typically, use shutter-priority for sports or action photography to ensure high shutter speeds with telephoto lenses. Use aperture-priority for landscapes.Film “speeds” vary according to the sensitivity of the chemicals in the film. Films with bigger ISO numbers 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, (such as 400) are more sensitive to light, so they’re great when you work with low-light photographic situations or you have to do sports photography…